This is a picture postcard village, with nothing to detract from the magic of the place. Here it seems almost as if time has stopped. It is first of all a natural site, a crescent-shaped cliff surmounted by a wooded swath of green, at the base of which sits the abbey and where the river Dronne curls around and surrounds the medieval town. The "Venice of Périgord" is actually an island.

The Abbey was founded by Charlemagne in the early 9th century. While the church has undergone some transformations over the centuries, its 11th century bell tower is certainly the oldest in France. In fact, it is unique for being built not on the church but on the rocky overhang that dominates it.

You must go behind the Abbey to see the remnants of the first monastery built in the base of the cliff, which includes the "Last Judgment" cave, an enigmatic bas-relief from the 15th century. The historic course can be followed with the help of a guide book and the signs situated along this easy circuit of approximately 600 metres. At the very end of the troglodyte route consisting of ten or so caves, you'll reach the fish farm. If you like to fish, you'll be interested to learn that the Dronne is jumping with trout and is stocked regularly from this farm.

You'll find a tourist information centre in the former cloister to help you better plan your stay. Take in the Musée Desmoulin and its spirit medium paintings.

Just past the Renaissance Pavilion, the old southern defence of the abbey and the abbot's manor which now houses a painters' workshop, you'll find the Moulin de l'Abbaye, converted into an adorable hotel on the banks of the Dronne.

Friday morning
Be sure to come to Brantôme on Friday morning or else stay until Friday at noon, since it's market day on the square between the abbey and the river, across from the Médici fountain and just steps from the Moulin. It's incredibly picturesque!

And when it's time for lunch…
The little village of Brantôme is connected by five stone bridges, but the most typical of these is "le Pont Coudé," the right-angle bridge, constructed by Pierre de Mareuil, abbot from 1538 to 1556, in the early 16th century to reach the garden called "The Monks' Garden" which he had just created. But why a "right-angle" bridge? It owes its original shape and its "crowsteps" (cutwaters) to the need to span the Dronne while withstanding this sometimes impetuous river. The garden retains vestiges of three altars of repose whose Italian-inspired architecture celebrates ancient classicism: fluted columns, Corinthian capitals, pilaster friezes… and then there are the park benches along the river where you can while away some time.

But let's backtrack and take the bridge facing the abbey which leads us onto this little jewel of an island that is the village itself. This ancient town has retained all of its medieval cachet. Go along the river to your right and take the path along the Quentin quay. You'll pass the Maison de l'Abbé with its blue shutters. It's time to eat. Au Fil de l'Eau is a fishermen's bistro filled with the enticing scents of "matelote," fried bleaks and foie gras. In fine weather, nothing compares with sitting on the covered terrace where you have an unrestricted view. The ducks come around the tables to gather up their offspring and Piu-Piu the big white swan sleeps peacefully just in front of the arches of the next bridge.

Take the time to saunter around the town, just for the sheer pleasure of it. "Brantôme," man of the sword, abbot from 1558 to 1614, and writer (author of, among other things, the famous Tales of Fair and Gallant Ladies) saved his town from the wars of religion. Is it in his honour that the grocer sells "Tétons" and "Gougnonettes," gallant little sweets shaped like breasts and testicles? In any case, they're an amusing idea for gifts to take home!

The grocery store is situated just across from the store that advertises "fishing gear, clothes and shoes." This is where Sunday fishermen come to buy what they need. So if you've forgotten your hip waders, hat, rod or tackle…

Return to the Abbey. On your right, you'll see the Porte des Réformés through which you entered the village. A few shops. Go and stock up on foie gras and confit at Valette and reserve your unsinkable at "Allo Canoës" for the next day.

Just at the foot of the right-angle bridge you can also take a boat, a little hour-long excursion that lets you admire the village as you pass under the five bridges.

Add to this the pleasure of the accomplished cuisine and a well-deserved rest on the Moulin's terrace, sip an aperitif in front of the falls under the Pont Coudé as the Dronne flows nonchalantly by, and try the wonderful dishes concocted by Bernard Villain in the Moulin's restaurant.